Saturday, September 14, 2013

     The wedding was a great time with lots of carefree dancing late into the night. The reception was outside in the back yard of the bride’s family home beside the North Platte River. It was a warm evening with cooling breezes. The mood of this wedding was completely laid back. There was time to visit and have fun without any pressures.

      We were back in Friday Harbor on Tuesday evening. The weather was hot on Wednesday. It felt like July instead of September. Thursday was equally beautiful. We spent the day sailing up and down San Juan Channel with Boyd and Lovel who live on the island. They have been graciously letting us park our car at their place. We may have converted our friends into the sailing world. It couldn’t have been a more pleasant day for sailing.

      Yesterday dawned foggy so we waited until noon to leave for Port Townsend. The weather forecast was for sun and a little wind in the afternoon. Well this was one of those times when the forecasters were totally off about the weather. The skies never cleared, the sun shone for a minute or two through overcast, the wind never materialized, and we had poor visibility on and off, crossing the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We had to cross several shipping lanes so we had the twenty year old GPS and radar systems on. Boaters are always supposed to have their radio tuned into channel 16/Coast Guard for any important updates. Yesterday they came on twice, announcing poor visibility all over Puget Sound and the Straits. That was pretty obvious to us. Just after one of those announcements someone on a small “craft” asked the coast guard for an update on any freight traffic. We found out they are happy to oblige. So Mike was on the radio checking in for any “traffic” every time we had to pass into a shipping lane. That reduced our anxiety during the moments of poor visibility. We could see Point Wilson for a long time, off in the distance, the top of it was shrouded in fog. As we came closer it got foggier and Mike announced that if it got bad he would give me steering directions while he watched the GPS and radar (down in the cabin). I truly am a luddite, because I have to say, I don’t feel comfortable being dependent only on machines for my survival. Granted, machines and humans both fail. I suppose all we can do is use both to the utmost and the rest is out of our hands. In our  situation with the visibility level fluctuating every ten minutes or so, we put our running lights/navigation lights on, Mike called the ferries to find out when a ferry would be landing in Port Townsend, and I used our high powered binoculars every time I thought I saw something in the fog.We ended up in fairly thick stuff for about thirty or forty minutes. One could still see another vessel as a dark shadow through this “damp blanket” for about a quarter mile perhaps, maybe a little more maybe a little less but the land was totally invisible. Through the fog I caught a glimpse of the towers off Point Wilson. I was on my toes, peering this way and that when the buoy just north of Point Hudson appeared. What a relief but it also meant we would be passing the ferry lane soon! After another five minutes everything changed like magic, the world became clear again, we could see Port Townsend in great detail, we could see the giant Washington ferry leaving and we could see the other one coming in. What a gift! Like Annie Lamot says, there are three kinds of prayers she uses  all of the time, “Help me, Help me!”, “Thank you, Thank you!” and “Wow!*”. 

      This morning we awoke to Mike’s cell phone ringing and a fog shrouded harbor. When he checked to see who had called at 7:30 a.m. he found a message from our friends in Friday Harbor. Apparently a sail boat was run over by a ferry yesterday and he wanted to make sure we were okay. Well, with the help of my non luddite son, Brendan, and our cell phone, we found out who, what, when, how, and where, the accident happened. There were no lives lost, negligence on both sides, sailboat and ferry.

Monday, September 16, 2013 -- Port Townsend

      These foggy days continue. Only on Saturday afternoon did it clear up and the sun came out. Yesterday Kieran arrived with Lily, Vince, Marianna, Jon Karl, and Hannah. Kieran flew into SeaTac the night before and Vince picked him up. Marianna, our neighbor in Santa Fe came out to visit her daughter and son-inlaw with her brother and his friend who are visiting from Holland. We had a wonderful afternoon of some easy sailing with moments when we lost our wind completely. After the sail we spent the remainder of the afternoon eating pasta and shellfish and drinking wine outside in the cockpit. Lots of jokes and catching up on news from New Mexico and Holland. Jon Karl is a sailor of twenty some years so we shared a lot on that level too. Then it began to rain and thunder and lightning so we went down into the cabin. Mike and Jon Karl are like two naughty little boys when they get together so everyone can imagine how raucous things got at times. Vince writes songs and plays guitar for a hobby. At one point he and Kieran disappeared for a bit. When they returned it was with musical instruments. Vince, Lily, and Kieran on the violin, played and sang their hearts out to us. That was truly the frosting on and the raisins and nuts in the cake for the whole afternoon.

      Today we are in the Port of Port Townsend Marina. It is foggy and damp. Kieran has gone into town on Mike’s bike to do some work on line for a CPR course he is taking in Seattle later at the end of the month. Mike is working on upgrading the Head (toilet).Yea! I’m off to do errands in a bit.

Tuesday, September 24, 2013       

Back in Port Townsend- Let’s see, what happened last week? We left Port Townsend on Tuesday, headed in the direction of Port Angeles on the south side of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We were moored at a dock and Kieran talked me through the maneuvering of the boat out of the marina. I was very nervous but there was no wind then, so it went smoothly enough. At the mouth of Port Townsend sound we had wind but had a difficult time getting past the current at the mouth of the sound. We just didn’t have enough strong wind to counteract the effect of the flooding current. We wanted to do it under sail but just as we’d make some head way a freighter would come along and we’d have to get out of it’s way and we’d lose ground doing so. Finally we motor sailed past the current and managed to sail a bit before our wind died down to nothing. We decided to head for Sequim Bay since it has a reputation for nice anchorage in a gorgeous setting. Getting into the bay was stressful the first time because of several shallow places one has to avoid but they were well marked once we came up on these spots. Our day had been a mixture of sun and cloud but in the evening we had lovely light, then stars and a full moon reflected on the water by the time we went to bed. 

      Wednesday morning dawned clear. I went up on the deck to find Kieran sitting reflectively in the sun. He had mentioned going for a walk on the beach the night before so I asked him if he wanted to lower the dinghy off the boat. He game so we lowered the dinghy into the water and got it set up. Then I went to wake up Mike, to see if he wanted to come along. He semi reluctantly hauled himself out of bed and off we rowed to the shore. The tide was out and there was mud before coming to a shell and rock shore. We spent an hour or so walking along the shore observing all the life left by the outgoing tide. Our field biologist son was able to fill us in about most of the creastures, most of them living in some kind of shell or partly hard like a shell. Kieran turned over an old washed up stump and there were small eel like creatures wiggling around madly, trying to hide. There were large rocks, as big as a loaf of bread and larger that had broken in half revealing a perfect circle of rock on the inside. We came upon a good fishing net that must of washed over board and a net bag full of oysters. It was all very interesting to observe with someone who knew what was what, chitons, Barnicles, mussels, clams, oysters, limpets, and something that Kieran didn’t know of, buried in the mud and shell debris that kept spitting streams of water straight into the air as we walked along. Needless to say we had a late breakfast and an even later start. We sailed out with very mild winds to the tip of Dungeness Spit and the New Dungeness light house. Then the wind disappeared. We thought about staying the night in Dungeness Bay but it isn’t very protected from winds to the south. So we motored back to Sequim Bay for the night. 

     In the evening we decided that the next day we would cross the Strait and depending on our mood, gradually make our way back to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. Our car had to be brought back to Port Townsend because this is where our boat would be hauled out onto land for the winter. Kieran and I would sail the boat back to Port Townsend and meet Mike there.  

     In the morning we had to stop at a fuel dock. This was my second time driving the boat in a marina. It wasn’t much fun. I will need lots of practice before I feel comfortable “parking” a boat in a marina. However, even though I was terribly nervous, it wasn’t a big catastrophe or anything because Kieran (who is used to teaching teenagers these maneuvers) was step by baby step talking me through the docking process. Plus Mike was there to untie the lines while Kieran guided me at the helm.   

      Once passed the shallow waters that are Sequim Bay"s trademark we were welcomed with wind on our faces. Up went our sails and happily we were averaging between five and six knots an hour with the wind out of the northwest. We needed that kind of speed if we hoped to cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca by early afternoon in time to take advantage of the incoming current. The day was partly cloudy but cleared up around noon. Around half way across the wind began to wane so we decided to eat lunch. As we were getting lunch makings out on the deck Mike sighted something big in the water, then there were two and they were blowing water into the air! Kieran identified them as Humpback whales. They were far enough away so we didn’t have to worry about being too close. They hung around for about a half hour and then were gone as the wind began to pick up again. It was Mike’s birthday, all morning he’d been getting phone calls from folks, then the whales! 
     The wind kept up and we crossed the strait by 2:00 or 2:30. Kieran was at the helm as we sailed through Cattle Pass on a flood tide. It was pretty cool. At one point Kieran said it felt more like river rafting as he worked on avoiding these big eddies but also kept the boat sailing. It wasn’t easy but he seemed to be comfortable doing it. Of course if we’d needed more power we could have turned on the diesel motor. There was another sail boat ahead of us motoring along without their sails. When they saw we were sailing they turned around and followed us for a while. We couldn’t figure out why they did this. Maybe they wanted to see if we had our engine on. They didn’t try to hail us on the radio either. 

     After Cattle Pass we kept sailing up San Juan Channel and decided to anchor a little northeast of Friday Harbor in the cosy and well protected Parks Bay on Shaw Island. There were only two other boats anchored there. Kieran fixed dinner and I made a cake in honor of the birthday guy! The full moon rose through some ragged clouds and I felt like autumn was just around the corner.

     The following morning with the engine idling and a gentle breeze in the bay we raised the anchor under sail. This is something Mike and I would never have attempted on our own. It went well with Kieran there filling the role of a well experienced instructor. Once we were out in the channel the wind was light but we decided to practice “man overboard” rescues under sail first and then when the wind fizzled out we did the drill with the motor. The procedures are quite different under sail from what one does using the engine. However both “man overboard” scenarios are the same for the final pick up part of the rescue; that is: the boat has to stop and drift towards the person in the water. It is essential that one doesn’t run over the person while coming close enough to lift them out of the water. I’m glad we did the drill. It is something I need to practice on a regular basis.

     By late afternoon we were in Friday Harbor for the night. We called both sets of friends. Boyd and Lovel brought our car down but couldn’t stay for dinner. Beth and her brother Joe were able to come for dinner. Kieran and I threw together a stew. We had a fun evening with them. 

     Mike decided to take one of the earlier ferries across Rosario Strait to Anacortes. At 6:00 a.m. the morning was clear but around 8:00 the fog came in for a couple of hours. Kieran and I didn’t know if we’d get out by noon or have to spend another day there. We decided to act like it would stay all day and headed for a coffee shop to check our e-mail. Finally around 10:00 it started to lift enough that we could just make out the shore on Shaw Island, across San Juan Channel. By 10:30 we were motoring down the channel. There was fog on the west side of the channel but on the east side it just kept clearing as we moved south. We came through Cattle Pass and it was clear and sunny. As if in welcome, three large seals or perhaps they were sea lions, were blowing water and frolicking in the water up ahead of us. We slowed down and watched them swim joyfully past us. Within the first half hour we were sailing. A light wind stayed with us for a couple of hours with our boat averaging 3 knots. At about 2:30 we were three quarters of the way there, the water was glassy. We turned the motor on and met Mike at the fuel dock in Port Townsend at about 4:30. We anchored beyond the breakwater of the marina by a paper factory. It has been our usual spot to anchor when not in the marina. The weather was supposed to get bad Sunday morning so the anchoring was done with that in mind. Sure enough, early the next morning the wind started to pick up. Kieran and Mike let out more rode (anchor chain or line). The wind and waves were doing gusts of 35-40 mph. The boat was rocking madly and every time a big wave hit hard the boat would jerk and creak loudly. Mike went out to the bow to check the anchor one more time. As he was bending over a big wave broke over the bow and drenched him in salt water. After a couple of hours of reading my book below decks, Kieran wanted to go out. He pointed out that it would be a lot more comfortable sailing than being yanked around in that particular anchorage. Mike was a bit worried about the old rigging holding up. Around noon some wind surfers came and were giving us a wonderful free show. They sailed in the shallows because they were always capsizing when it came time for them to turn. An hour later the wind didn’t seem quite so strong as it had been in the morning and Kieran had his way. Out came layers of clothing, rain gear, socks, rubber boots. Bringing the anchor up with Kieran lending a hand wasn’t nearly as difficult as I had envisioned it to be. Because we were squatting or kneeling most of the time while we worked, losing my balance wasn’t an issue. Also the waves weren’t breaking over the bow any more either. I found the weather very invigorating in spite of the blowing rain. Once the anchor was up and stowed the rain quit. We got under way with the mainsail on it’s second reef and the jib reefed to half its size. As we sailed down the sound  the waves and the wind decreased and we were able to let out the whole jib with the boat doing just fine. We had decided before hand to sail to the foot of the sound where there are better protected anchorages. The wind kept lessening as we sailed and the sun peeked through the clouds. By the time we were safely anchored in the late afternoon, the cloud cover was breaking up. By dinner time the sun was out long enough to give us a beautiful sunset. Later yet the stars came out and were reflected on the water. Kieran started talking about bioluminescence. I had a vague idea of its existence from using the head (toilet) in the middle of the night. The head uses salt water to flush and when the water is disturbed in any way it sparkles in the dark! Kieran took one of the paddles and started swooshing water around off the stern of the boat. It started sparkling like fairies from some fantasy story book! For Kieran, Tinkerbell always comes to mind. It was just amazing to see. Apparently if one is sailing at night the wake from the boat becomes a sparkling wonder!

     All of these wonders for someone who lives in a land locked state. For someone growing up out here on the water it must be a common phenomenon. It makes me wonder what I take for granted in New Mexico. I know some things I will never take for granted. For example; dry air, dry humidity- free bed sheets, clothes, walls, windows, floors, no mold growing in a closet, being able to see forever. Here in the northwest, unless one is on the water or close to shore, the view is often obscured by tall evergreens. I understand part of my enthusiasm for this sailing better now; lots of water with many living creatures in it and the wide open expanses on the water are like the wide open southwest. On the water I can see the sky and far into the distance. That seems to be a necessity to keeping me sane.

     Let”s see, where was I time line wise? Sunday night was a peaceful night (though the forecast had been otherwise, making the calmness of the night that more special). Monday morning arrived with sun, clouds, and light winds. We had thought we would just go into the marina and start on “work projects” for the day but we allowed ourselves to be enticed by the fresh morning and the wind.  This has been one of the treasures of this summer of sailing. If the day called us out on the water, we could forget about other plans and sail instead. When we were tired, we could rest if we wanted to. Of course one of the other jewels this summer has been learning to be patient with the weather/wind, rain, fog, and dying winds. Mike is completely familiar with this process since being a pilot of small planes demands this of you for survival; but for me it has been a challenge. There is a little kid still active inside me that gets impatient with the weather doing what it will and not what I want. I’ve had to learn to stop expecting the weather to be consistent and steady. I’ve begun to see that I can count on it changing and when it does I adjust my actions accordingly. Writing in this blog has been great for those days when sailing is not an option. 

     Well speaking of weather not cooperating, today is Saturday(a week later) and it is blowing and raining outside as we sit in our boat, listening to music, I am writing in my blog, Mike is writing up a list of electrical systems on the boat to be checked during the haul out. We are waiting for Kieran to arrive with his friend Betsy after taking a day CPR course in Seattle together. We were going to take Betsy sailing but this is not going to happen today. Tomorrow is supposed to be just as bad. Ah well, what was I saying about adjusting to the weather? We shall go to the wooden boat museum in town and maybe if the rain lets up we’ll go for a hike.

      Kieran leaves early Tuesday morning and Wednesday we take the boat over to the yard where she will be hauled out for the winter. Then begins the last phase of this magical summer now turning to fall. Things that broke this summer and didn’t need immediate attention will be attended to now. Also the twenty three year old rigging will be replaced, the mast will be taken down and inspected, we hope the bottom of the boat will  not need new paint, a new refrigerator motor will replace the old one that died way back in late July , then we hope to add some things to make the boat more efficient with it’s electicity. This involves making stands for a solar panel and also a wind generator. We will see how our funds hold up as we complete the essential projects on the boat.

       Today is Wednesday and this is our first evening “on the hard”. We watched our boat get “hauled out” today. It was pretty cool. This giant vehicle called a travel lift raises  boats out of the water and carries them to a place in a boatyard. The boats are then propped up with with these iron boat stands. We are living on the boat as we work on her. We have to climb down an eight foot ladder to get to the ground.

Thursday, October 3

     It is a new experience to be living on the boat but not on the water, no gentle rocking, no water sounds. We have electricity, we are plugged into the “grid” and we have our propane stove. No water, so we use the bathroom and a giant work sink in one of the workshops in the boatyard. Showers are taken over by the marina. We are within easy walking distance of downtown and uptown businesses, cafes,restaurants, bakeries, grocery stores,bars, boutiques, book stores, galleries, museums, and of course the open water!

     Yesterday we met with one of the main managers/electrician at the boat yard to go over work we would like them to do and work we would be doing ourselves. Because our boat is 23 years old all the different systems need to be checked. Some things will need overhauling and some things will just have to be replaced, like all of the rigging on the boat. Yesterday we took all the sails off. After drying them in the sun we “flaked” them (the way sails are folded, in an accordion manner) and put them away in their sail bags. The mainsail came off the mast and boom, the staysail and jib came off the furling mechanisms which are attached to some of the stays on the front of the boat. We did other little chores while waiting for sails to dry. We worked on taking off the running rigging from the sails (ropes for pulling in or letting out the sails in the wind), then stowing them. Mike worked on detaching a special pole used for the spinnaker sail from the mast.

      A workman named Matt came to work on the seal on the propeller shaft. It started to leak while we were still in the marina. I was off on some errand while for a few minutes Mike was afraid the boat would sink. Water was coming into the hull and the bilge pump couldn’t keep up with the inflow fast enough. But then it quit coming in so fast and someone from the boatyard came and put a clamp on the seal for safety’s sake. That was a huge relief! The next day we motored over to the haul out with no worries of sinking on our way over.

     Well it is time to post this latest blog. Until the next one I hope everyone is well.

        Tina